N31AK POH, Pilot Operating Handbook

Maintenance Procedures, Tips, Parts List

yet to do
add something on the o2 bottle, finger monitor (battery?)


Consider working in clothes which won't scratch the paint. no belt
buckles, jeans clasps, buttons etc. eg sweatpants.

see c06_procs for many procedure definitions.
Pay special attention to how the plane must be weighted
while working on the tail end, procedure 
"howto_prepForTailMaintenance".
see Rutan's POH, and Lycoming newsletters.


I'll add stuff peculiar to N31AK here. but see Rutan's POH
calendar-based dates:

every month:  (1st of month, arbitrarily)
    check tire pressure on all 3 tires. should be 40 psi.
        McCreary mains have a max of 50psi. (5/08)
    if big temp/humidity swing lately, consider retorquing prop.
    check condition of rubber nose bumper

annual
    lube worm gear.
    check filter on vacuum regulator.
    consider filter for vacuum under the dash.
    check fuel filter under passenger seat.
    bath, mcGuire's cleaner, wax it.
    clean EGT and CHT cabling connectors in hell hole.
    remove canard and top cover. tighten nuts on terminal strips

25 hours
    change or clean plugs.
    check brake pads, brakes for leaks
    condition of fuel cap O-rings

50 hours
    change the oil.  6qts.
    check baffling, mounting bolts on starter,
    bead blast, gap, and rotate spark plugs.



Maintenance Numbers, torques, pressures:
--------------------------------------------------------------
spark plug torque. 30-35 ft-lbs. acs pg 266
spark plug gap.  0.025" (T.Smith 6/07)
     pre-Tom, was using .019".  notebook pg 147. plug label: .016"-0.021"
18-20 ft-lbs for wooden props.
xxxx  ft-lbs for Catto prop (more than just wood)


Consumables, things you might have to replace
---------------------------------------------
air filter. napa auto. napa Gold 6036.

Alternator belt: Lycoming 37A19773-376 (stamped on belt)
   ACS p/n 08-00249

camlocs. aren't consumables but they seem to 'go away'.
   A/C Spruce, around pg 100
camlocs (cowling and baggage pods)
   A/C P/N: 4002-O "stud-retaining grommet", cadmium.   $0.81
            4002-OS "stud-retaining washer", stainless. $1.73
camloc receptacles (baggage pods; cowling already has what it needs)
   A/C P/N:  don't know which is appropriate
214-16N  $1.85 plain
214-16ND $3.45 countersunk
244-16   $2.25 floating bronze

cowling screw. see 'screws, cowling'

epoxy: Proset 125, (225 or 226? hardener)
   Svendsen's Marina, Gate #6, Clement st. alameda. 
   510 522-7860

exhaust gaskets.
   SSR77611, sky ranch. 4.97 ea. "No Bloc Exh Gasket"

grease, bearing. Aeroshell 22. from Dave V.

Oil filter, aircraft quality (not needed)
   CH 48108-1 TCM P/N 649922, 
   Fram PH 3950. believed to replace CH 48108-1. 
   CH 48110 avail at Bridgeford at Napa. same as needed??
   AA48108 oil filter. 15.00 at sky ranch. like CH 48108-1 but has magnet to
       catch filings.

oil, 100 Plus. by the case
   shell oil, Pacheco. 925-228-2223. ask for Armando. "100-Plus"
   can pick it up from FBO trucks, Sac Exec, Sterling (expensive!), 
   or $53.95/case at sky ranch, Jan 2007
   Ralph, NE LVK, $65/case (?) 10/08

peel ply, p 41
   tape, 2" width, 50yds/roll, P/N 09-15100, $7.60
   tape, 3" is 09-15200, Surface tape dacron smooth.. have a roll. $18.20
   full width. P/N 09-00100 $3.10/yd

PTT. red button Push to Talk. MS25089-1AL. ACS p/n 11-00745. $8.20

screws, cowling. 
   ACS p/n NAS514P1032-10P, 10-32 by 5/8", flatheads, 100 degree heads.
   ACS p/n NAS514P1032-8P, 10-32 by 1/2", flatheads, 100 degree heads.
   ACS P/N NAS390B10P #10, "finishing washer, flush type", $0.08 NO! .45"dia and raised!
   ACS 04-00398 "flush finish washer". is 0.75", larger than the originals. usable
   MS24694-S54, 0.17 ea at sky ranch. 100 deg, 10-32, 5/8"
   sky ranch receipt has "countersunk washer" A3235-020-24A. must be #10

screws, hell hole. are 10-32 flatheads, 1/2". qty 9

screws, control cover plates, are 8-32 (3/8" to 5/8") (one is 3/4 long(?))

sparkplugs
   Autolite 386, 18mm. automobile side of the plug pairs.
   UREM37BY for mag-driven plugs. $16ea at acs. 
   UREM37BY for mag-driven plugs. $19.50 fm Ralph, a NE hangar, LVK

tires, tubes
   McCreary 5.00x5 tube, ACS p/n 06-08300 $49.60 Mar08
   McCreary 5.00x5 tire, ACS p/n 06-08200 $42.10 Mar08, for mains, not nose
   McCreary "2.80/2.50-4" marking on tire. Tube had same marking.
      These nose wheel parts were in stock at Sac Sky Ranch, 10/08

Vacuum Filter (up front).    ACS p/n 9-18-1. $27 in 2006

Vacuum Pump. new one is Sigma-Tek, acs p/n 1U478-003. $689 in 2006

Vacuum Regulator (amidships, starbd side). Rapco p/n 2H3-12. acs 10-00289, $158.95 p376
Vacuum regulator. p332 in old ACS catalog
Vacuum Regulator Filter (amidships). Rapco part RAB3-5-1, 
   acs 10-23850, $1.95
   1.98 sky ranch, Jan 2007

washers, cowling 
   A/C P/N: NAS390B10P #10, 8 cents ea. cadmium (?) "finishing washers, flush type".
   DD says to get the stainless variety and he notes
   that there are 2 sizes of the washers and that he
   prefers the smaller.
   sky ranch has the small one on order but had the big ones Jan 2007.


--------------- maintenance procedures -------------------------------
maintenance_prepareFor
    It's very EZ to tip the plane over while working on the rear seat, engine
    area etc. Obviously put the plane on its nose, then add enough weight to 
    the front seat and pilot's floorboard so that you can hang your weight 
    off the prop.  Then you know you can move around without concern.

   Consider working in clothes which won't scratch the paint. no belt
   buckles, jeans clasps, buttons etc. eg sweatpants.

canard_remove {
   // need: 7/16" socket, 2-3" extension, flashlight, and
   // hand tools for removing clevis pin, detaching trim.
   remove hatch cover
   detach trim cables (port, under panel).
      cut tie wraps holding insulators to springs.
   remove clevis pin. alum tube, starboard side under panel.
   remove 2 bolts holding the canard down. thru hatch area.
}

canopy_clean
    use plastic cleaner/wax, "Brillantize", inside and out
    with a diaper.

cowling_remove_lower {
    first undo 4 camlocs holding the oil cooler to the lower cowling.
    undo the screws.
    save parts in a small box.
    wrestle the cowling free.
    camlocs will fall on the floor.
}


fuel_add 	// refueling
    major issue! a spark can wreck the plane! flowing gas can cause an
	increase in static charge.
    minor issue1: you can't completely fill a tank when plane is on nose.
	you can get about 45 gallons total.
    minor issue2: 2 people plus a full load of gas is over gross. A 
	special exception exists to allow takeoffs in calm air.
    minor issue3: over 45 gallons, the fuel can vent if plane left in 
	the Sun.

    undo gas cap. lift, twist, remove cap.
    extend as far as chain will allow
    keep the chain taught during refueling
    attach grounding clip to chain as far away from open tank as possible
    insert nozzle such that the metal of the nozzle touches
	the metallic ring at the tank's opening.


oil_add 
    needs: "100 Plus ashless dispersant"
    The "Tool Bag", generally kept under the passenger seat, should 
    contain a yellow, plastic devices which screws onto the top of an
    oil bottle.  Close its valve (yellow handle), insert yellow device into
    fill tube, and open the valve.

    If not using the above "yellow device", take caution that the oil for this 
              plane is very viscous and takes a long time to exit the funnel. You 
              can make a real mess by trying to rush it.


oil_change 
    // afterwards, record new hobbs time for next oil change at the top of
    // this document, paper POH, kept in the middle (flight) section of the
    // blue backpack.
    needs:
	2 gallon bucket, tape (like duct tape), 1-2 plastic bags,
	the new oil, flat screwdriver for camlocs, crosspoint
	screwdriver for cowling screws, little boxes to put screws
	and camlocs into, nut driver, 1 1/2" wrench, safety wire and
	tools, 
        funnel WITH FILTER,   <---<<< important
	ladder, at least 2 hours.

    CAUTION: leaning on the rear of the plane can cause it to fall over.

    levelThePlane(); // putting weights on nose as needed.
    removeUpperCowling()
    removeLowerCowling()
    undo 4 camlocs holding the oil cooler to the lower cowling.
    remove lower cowling
    use nut driver to remove the bolts from the bottom of the
	air scoop assembly.
    remove the top of the air scoop assembly from the bottom of 
	the carbuerator.
    tape a bag just forward of the drain nut. so the oil doesnt
	mess up the carb.
    undo the safety wire on the drain nut.
    use the wrench to loosen the drain nut. Use fingers, not
	wrench, when it loosens up a little.
    with the bucket below, and the plastic bag ready to guide oil
	into the bucket, quickly undo the drain nut
    EXTRA POINTS if you can hang onto the drain nut
    After the big flow has slowed, position the bucket where the
	draining can continue more slowly.
    if the drain nut went into the bucket, find another plastic
	bag to wear as a glove while you fish around.
    There's supposed to be a screen that comes out with the drain
	nut but this plane doesn't have one at present.
    reinstall the filter (if present) and the drain nut.
    put in the new oil. use ladder, funnel, filter. Be careful not
	to fill the funnel too quickly. Also _remove_ the funnel
	carefully to minimize spilt oil. The oil is quite viscious
	and will sometimes take a while to exit the funnel.
    safety wire the drain nut.
    reinstall the carb's scoop. The bottom part requires patience 
	AND DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE BOLTS - YOU'D JUST BE 
	CRUSHING THE AIR FILTER.
    installLowerCowling();
    installUpperCowling();


noseGearWorm_lube {
    needs: 
	crosspoint screwdriver, exacto knife, clear RTV, long thin clean stick.
	a good while for the new RTV to harden.

    remove lid in front of canard
    if nose ballast is in the way, temporarily remove it.
    find the "little access door". It's about 3" tall and 1 1/2 wide; it's
	held in place with clear RTV.
    run an exacto knife from the 8o'clock position, clockwise, to the 4o'clock
	position. Pull on the "silver thing" and the door should swing out.
    take a long, thin stick (shish kabab size is perfect). dip it in grease
	and work the grease onto the used parts of the gear and worm (the worm
	is barely visible).
    retract and extend gear to see that it feels good throughout its range.
    use new RTV to close up the access door. Don't bother it for a day.
    remount the ballast if nec
    close up the top cover.
}


plane_wash {
    try soap and water first.
    for remaining areas, use diaper and Meguires' "fine cleaner" (w/o wax).
    // shortly after giving the plane it's first big bath,
    // sponges, hose etc), the transponder didn't work. 
    // This might have been caused by Water in the antenna?
    try to keep inside of plane dry (the canopy will leak so 
        try hard to seal it).
    simple bucket of soap, soft sponge, and hose. An airport's 
        washrack is good.
    // don't hurt antennas on bottom of fuselage, ie don't catch
    // a cleaning pole on them.

    Soap and water will remove lots. Marks from belt buckles etc 
    will need a slightly abrasive cleaner, like McGuire's "fine"
    cleaner (w/o wax). 

    Apply McGuire's with one diaper, hand buff clean w/ another.

    Turtle wax approp areas after cleaning.
}


propeller_nick_fix {
    fixing nick with epoxy. 2000 ways, page 3, top
    see also "resource guide"
}

VacuumRegulator_remove {
    need: 1 1/4" box end wrench, replacement hoses (3/8", 5/8"),
    screwdriver, flashlight, duct tape, v sharp knife, and
    clothes which won't scratch paint.
    // don't think the big wrench is really needed. There's a torque
    // on the regulator caused by the hose geometry. I was later
    // able to move the nut by grabbing it with pliers.

    Lean over side, remove cover on vertical wall (4 screws).
    // put plane on nose(?) and pull a table up to the wing.
    // get up on the table in clothing which has no sharp 
    // edges etc.
    remove horizontal cover. 1 screw.
    remove cover around rear stick. 4 screws.
    tape flashlight into position.
    undo the 4 hose clamps
    use knife to cut hoses, preferably along their lengths.
    // suspect you only hafta cut the hoses on the ends nearer the
    // regulator (since their fittings have 'lips' which make it
    // v. hard to pull the hose off). Other connections slide well. 
    remove hoses.
    while holding regulator, use box end wrench to loosen the nut
        on the far right end.
    // try lifting the forward end of the reg and moving the big 
    // nut w/ pliers, then fingers.
    blow out the new tubes with a compressor.
}

vacuumRegulator_adjustPressure {
// regulator comes from factory set to deliver 5.0psi. We may need
// to tweak that up to 5.2.  There is an inch long bar at the top
of the regulator and it turns an adjustment screw which runs down 
the axis of the device. Tabs on the top prevent this bar and screw
from turning on their own. You'll have to flatten the tabs before 
trying to turn the bar/screw. 
Run the engine at 1700 rpm and turn the screw til the gauge reads
the desired value. Then lock the bar in place and remount the 
covers.
}

VacuumPump_remove{
The apparent issue will be how to undo the almost invisible 4th 
nut.  It may not seem possible at first but you can just barely
get a 7/16" _box_end_wrench_ on it. It'll take some patience but
it's better than dismantling other parts of the engine.
}


file: c08_maintenance.html